Small steps towards success

Two weeks ago I went climbing in Donautal where we found ourselves alone at the crag - despite perfect weather (almost too warm) and perfect rock. On the first day we went sport climbing and onsighted a bunch of easier routes as warm up before we attempted a F6c+. I only managed to climb this grade twice (indoors) and never tried outdoors, so I was not too enthusiastic about giving it a try.

But so I did. And damn, it went smooth. I managed the lower crux with no problems and also the not too easy moves that came after. Then, on the last hard move, I failed. Dammit. Onsight blown. I did not try once more and left it for later. Here are some nice pictures I took:





The next day we did a long (100m) three pitch F6a+. Alpine sport climbing - my favorite! :) And this crack spit me out last year in Octobre so I had some personal motivation to get the thing over. And I did. I can't tell how good it felt to not fall at the final crux move (like last time).

The past week-end we went to another crag nearby. The weather (again) was magnificant and after some warming up I made short process of two F6b+ routes which I onsighted. So the finger boarding sessions I started with shortly show considerable effect, particularly with the 3 kg I lost during the past 6 weeks due to an anabolic diet.

On sunday we will be out there again and try some slopery routes on perfect rock - really looking forward to it!

Have a nice week-end everyone!

Training Equipment Pics

I finally put together some shots of the training equipment:

Campus Board with first row of rugs removed for the Finger Board

The reason for the alternate placement of the Finger Board - a perfect hit of the screw into the oil pipe...fortunately not too much damage, but still a nasty smell around for about two weeks

selfmade rock rings with crimpy edges - a perfect workout item!
The holds - the pocket 2.5 is for a pocket where I am not sure whether I should squeeze three finger tips in or have a comfty 2 finger pocket...

I will hopefully be able to add two or three more items to the board soon, where I would focus on additional holds for the "DOIY rock rings" and for two or three differently sized wodden bars for pull-ups (a small one and two larger, slopy ones).

Training progresses but I am currently suffering from some power loss due to the anabolic diet I'm currently on - the weight loss is worth it! And on the week-ends ("carbo-loading days") I feel very strong and climb my "hardest" routes in the gym at ease. Let's see what the next two month and the endurance trainig later this year will bring.

Some brute force efforts

The extensive Campusing and Bouldering has given me a powerful strength gain over the past four weeks. Today I went to the gym in order to do some endurance training climbing routes. I was surprised to find my endurance at a supreme level.

And another big project is coming up: A monster traverse I discovered outdoors on a 90° sandstone wall - and about 80 m long. I have not yet found a way to link more than 20 m in a ingle burn. The single moves are approximately Fb5a to Fb6a. In total this should make at least for an easy Fb7a(T) - which is far beyond my current climbing level. I can now do all moves, with approximately 5-6 sequences getting me really pumped. The big link is hopefully happening later this year.

Ah btw: good news. The digicam is back to work and will deliver some nice shots in the next days.

Self-made "rock rings" and some desaster coming up...

Before leaving to a congress in Venice for the entire last week I build my own "Rock Rings" which can be attached to my small Campus Board. Nice things to hang onto actually :) I will put a picture at this place as soon as I get my digital camera back which is still lying around in some friends caar somewhere...

Today I went to the post office to pick up the finger board I have been waiting for sooo long! (twelve weeks or so) The DIY-thing went pretty well - until I hit the oil line when tightening the last screww that went into the wall. WHAT A MESS!!! Damn. I should have know it. Anyway, the tube was some two inches inside the wall, so there was absolutely no chance to detect it from exterior. Good luck anyway: The pump was turned off since I have a green mind and thought about the waste of electric power - so I detached it sometime this spring. Next week it will turn out, how much the assurance company will take over and how long it will take to get the nasty smell out of our appartment. Attachment of the finger board is hence delayed for another week (at least).

Hope your day did get a better go so far...

Alternate training begins

Since I am still - and will probably for a little longer - not be able get on the climber wall withouth getting into either bad trouble with my tendons I decided on alternate training methods. Therefore I came back to my small (in fact tiny) campus board, which I build some time last year when motivation caught me again.


Dawn, it was frustrating I can tell. I did not do much muscle workout during the past month and also did stick to bouldering on not so steep walls with small grimps. I realized that some of my explosive 1RM force had definitely disappeared. My plan is now to keep doing some chin ups and easy sequences (up down travelling) and static blocks with height difference. Hopefully that will bring back some force soon.

Despite the pity of having to head for something I have already been at, I still did appreciate that I realized, that I would have to do more physical training in order to improve on my grade. Sometimes you think you do everything alright - some bouldering, endurance "laps" on plastic, climbing outdoors and some core training for the body tension. And still you are missing an essential part - jumping around on jugs.

Besides this my midfinger is aching. So I stopped some finger training for a few days for better recovery to then get back on. I am still missing the finger board which I order several month ago but will probably be here in a few days (finally...).

A bad day to start...

Actually it is a very unfortunate day to start blogging about climbing. Two days ago I was bouldering indoors and as usual dropped from the top (not very high) after reaching the big jug. I must have been unconcious or something (maybe just dumb?) - I dropped so bad on left foot that my tendons felt like giving up on their job. The doctor told me (after twisting my ankle for the x-ray shoot which I'd almost killed him for) that they persisted but are definitively overstrained. Well then, some weeks off. And cross your fingers for me - on monday they will have to examine my knee which is aching for several weeks now due to (another) bouldering accident where the heel hook was stronger than "something" which snapped at a terribly loud noise.

I will anyway add some older pictures soon.