Today was magnificant. The sun was out every now and then, it was neither too hot (to climb) neither was it too cold to be out all day long. We set out for Kalmit this morning after squeezing three pads into the car which already involved some effort.
It was a brilliant day outside with the guys. We did not complete (but we did try) some harder problems (some 6c-ish stuff), but I was able to pull several 6a flashes out of the bag which rendered me confident for the upcoming visit to the Bouldering Mekka - Fointainebleau. One more week... I can't await it!
Sunday, April 5, 2009
Wednesday, April 1, 2009
Pul-ups, pull-ups and ... pull-ups
I started doing pull-ups every morning after my jogging lap and started with a pyramid of 6-7-8-9-8-7-6 reps with legs kept straight and horizontal. The later is awesome for core tension - just try! Today I decided to do a simple 10 times 10 set. The first 50 or 60 are made at ease. However, then the pain (and hence gain ;) ) increases with each set. Again, I tried to keep my legs from dangling in vertical direction but to lift them - if not 90 deg then at leas a little.
Let's see how this effort reproduces on the wall in, say, a month...
The nice weather is finally destroying my motivation for work today, so hopefully your day start's out with a little more enthusiasm...
Let's see how this effort reproduces on the wall in, say, a month...
The nice weather is finally destroying my motivation for work today, so hopefully your day start's out with a little more enthusiasm...
Sunday, March 29, 2009
new toys
I haven't had the passion to post a blog entry for some time.
After the last entry I had two month of very good finger strength gains and weight reduction which resulted in my red point grade raising from F6c to F7a during the winter. Further, my bouldering grade finally settled at the upper Fb6b-ish level with some Fb6a flashes.
But all the climbing (which was good fun!!!) held me back from training. Recently, I found myself realizing that while my power endurance has improved considerably my finger max strength raduced slightly - and sent me back to the training bench.
I can tell you it feels good and painful all at once when dangling off the hangboard... It has been quite a while since I last upgraded the blog and I spent some fun time doing handicrafts for developping new power toys.
So first I build a simple bar for doing pull ups etc. as to increase power endurance and for warm-up laps. I added a larger bar for open handed one armed lock off training. The back and forth swinging possiblity of the bar requires additional core tension which is a nice to have.
And here is something a build some months ago (nice training for pinches)
The latest improvement in my home training is the following sloper bar with two different angles (approximately 30 and 20°). Please forgive the poor mounting, but I ordered some holds and have planned to build a training board with variable hold mountings on which the sloper bar can be mounted at ease. Hence, I have not put much time into the temporary mounting of the thing.
While the smaller angle is easy to lock for a longer time, the steeper one is ideal for upper body lock of training and I am also expecting good finger strength gains. Maybe I will further increase the inclination angle later.
That's it for now. I am looking forward for an awesome week in Fontainebleau in two weeks and will definitely provide you with some nice pics (hopefully the wheather will be fine).
After the last entry I had two month of very good finger strength gains and weight reduction which resulted in my red point grade raising from F6c to F7a during the winter. Further, my bouldering grade finally settled at the upper Fb6b-ish level with some Fb6a flashes.
But all the climbing (which was good fun!!!) held me back from training. Recently, I found myself realizing that while my power endurance has improved considerably my finger max strength raduced slightly - and sent me back to the training bench.
I can tell you it feels good and painful all at once when dangling off the hangboard... It has been quite a while since I last upgraded the blog and I spent some fun time doing handicrafts for developping new power toys.
So first I build a simple bar for doing pull ups etc. as to increase power endurance and for warm-up laps. I added a larger bar for open handed one armed lock off training. The back and forth swinging possiblity of the bar requires additional core tension which is a nice to have.
And here is something a build some months ago (nice training for pinches)
The latest improvement in my home training is the following sloper bar with two different angles (approximately 30 and 20°). Please forgive the poor mounting, but I ordered some holds and have planned to build a training board with variable hold mountings on which the sloper bar can be mounted at ease. Hence, I have not put much time into the temporary mounting of the thing.
While the smaller angle is easy to lock for a longer time, the steeper one is ideal for upper body lock of training and I am also expecting good finger strength gains. Maybe I will further increase the inclination angle later.That's it for now. I am looking forward for an awesome week in Fontainebleau in two weeks and will definitely provide you with some nice pics (hopefully the wheather will be fine).
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