Two weeks ago I went climbing in Donautal where we found ourselves alone at the crag - despite perfect weather (almost too warm) and perfect rock. On the first day we went sport climbing and onsighted a bunch of easier routes as warm up before we attempted a F6c+. I only managed to climb this grade twice (indoors) and never tried outdoors, so I was not too enthusiastic about giving it a try.
But so I did. And damn, it went smooth. I managed the lower crux with no problems and also the not too easy moves that came after. Then, on the last hard move, I failed. Dammit. Onsight blown. I did not try once more and left it for later. Here are some nice pictures I took:
The next day we did a long (100m) three pitch F6a+. Alpine sport climbing - my favorite! :) And this crack spit me out last year in Octobre so I had some personal motivation to get the thing over. And I did. I can't tell how good it felt to not fall at the final crux move (like last time).
The past week-end we went to another crag nearby. The weather (again) was magnificant and after some warming up I made short process of two F6b+ routes which I onsighted. So the finger boarding sessions I started with shortly show considerable effect, particularly with the 3 kg I lost during the past 6 weeks due to an anabolic diet.
On sunday we will be out there again and try some slopery routes on perfect rock - really looking forward to it!
Have a nice week-end everyone!
Friday, August 22, 2008
Sunday, August 3, 2008
Training Equipment Pics
I finally put together some shots of the training equipment:
The reason for the alternate placement of the Finger Board - a perfect hit of the screw into the oil pipe...fortunately not too much damage, but still a nasty smell around for about two weeks
selfmade rock rings with crimpy edges - a perfect workout item!
The holds - the pocket 2.5 is for a pocket where I am not sure whether I should squeeze three finger tips in or have a comfty 2 finger pocket...
I will hopefully be able to add two or three more items to the board soon, where I would focus on additional holds for the "DOIY rock rings" and for two or three differently sized wodden bars for pull-ups (a small one and two larger, slopy ones).
Training progresses but I am currently suffering from some power loss due to the anabolic diet I'm currently on - the weight loss is worth it! And on the week-ends ("carbo-loading days") I feel very strong and climb my "hardest" routes in the gym at ease. Let's see what the next two month and the endurance trainig later this year will bring.
The holds - the pocket 2.5 is for a pocket where I am not sure whether I should squeeze three finger tips in or have a comfty 2 finger pocket...
I will hopefully be able to add two or three more items to the board soon, where I would focus on additional holds for the "DOIY rock rings" and for two or three differently sized wodden bars for pull-ups (a small one and two larger, slopy ones).
Training progresses but I am currently suffering from some power loss due to the anabolic diet I'm currently on - the weight loss is worth it! And on the week-ends ("carbo-loading days") I feel very strong and climb my "hardest" routes in the gym at ease. Let's see what the next two month and the endurance trainig later this year will bring.
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