Friday, August 22, 2008

Small steps towards success

Two weeks ago I went climbing in Donautal where we found ourselves alone at the crag - despite perfect weather (almost too warm) and perfect rock. On the first day we went sport climbing and onsighted a bunch of easier routes as warm up before we attempted a F6c+. I only managed to climb this grade twice (indoors) and never tried outdoors, so I was not too enthusiastic about giving it a try.

But so I did. And damn, it went smooth. I managed the lower crux with no problems and also the not too easy moves that came after. Then, on the last hard move, I failed. Dammit. Onsight blown. I did not try once more and left it for later. Here are some nice pictures I took:





The next day we did a long (100m) three pitch F6a+. Alpine sport climbing - my favorite! :) And this crack spit me out last year in Octobre so I had some personal motivation to get the thing over. And I did. I can't tell how good it felt to not fall at the final crux move (like last time).

The past week-end we went to another crag nearby. The weather (again) was magnificant and after some warming up I made short process of two F6b+ routes which I onsighted. So the finger boarding sessions I started with shortly show considerable effect, particularly with the 3 kg I lost during the past 6 weeks due to an anabolic diet.

On sunday we will be out there again and try some slopery routes on perfect rock - really looking forward to it!

Have a nice week-end everyone!

Sunday, August 3, 2008

Training Equipment Pics

I finally put together some shots of the training equipment:

Campus Board with first row of rugs removed for the Finger Board

The reason for the alternate placement of the Finger Board - a perfect hit of the screw into the oil pipe...fortunately not too much damage, but still a nasty smell around for about two weeks

selfmade rock rings with crimpy edges - a perfect workout item!
The holds - the pocket 2.5 is for a pocket where I am not sure whether I should squeeze three finger tips in or have a comfty 2 finger pocket...

I will hopefully be able to add two or three more items to the board soon, where I would focus on additional holds for the "DOIY rock rings" and for two or three differently sized wodden bars for pull-ups (a small one and two larger, slopy ones).

Training progresses but I am currently suffering from some power loss due to the anabolic diet I'm currently on - the weight loss is worth it! And on the week-ends ("carbo-loading days") I feel very strong and climb my "hardest" routes in the gym at ease. Let's see what the next two month and the endurance trainig later this year will bring.